My taxi came a bit early but I was ready. In the airport everything was going smooth and soon I was on board (tiny chileans dont need much space but I do ;o((( . ). Luckily it was just a short flight but unluckily I did not see the vulcanos. I took the shuttle to the busterminal to realize that the next bus will go to bariloche at 3pm now it was 10:00 ;o(. At least I saw a traditional dance in the terminal. Thought to myself well lets got to the center for some coffee but I walked in vane as nothing had open on a sunday moring. So I decided to go to the fishermen wharf where I was already 4 years ago.
Shitty weather but at least most of the things in the Mercado Angelmo was inside. Had a good view on sealions and also the folclore group was dancing here, much nicer then in the busterminal amongst the fish ;o)... Had some Congrio soup (incredible, I'll miss chile for the seafood), and as an appetizer I got Ceviche from smoked salmon, this nearly beat the palmheart ceviche, wow wow wow.
So I am not able to make it to El Bolson and hoped to see the blood moon in Bariloche, but first we have to go there. At the frontier there was snow on the road (wintertime in spring, like in germany). Finally we arrove around 9:30 pm at the terminal bariloche. Unluckily my mobile dropped and I lost the info about the hostels. I went with the bus as infront of the taxistand there where waiting 6 people and for more than 15 minutes no taxi came. I went into the bus and there was the argentinian problem again, no cash ;o( but luckily somebody paid with his card the 6 pesos and I paid him in cash. The bus dropped me off in the center and now where to go. Well, I tried a hotel but it was full with spring breakers or s.th. Similar. The receptionist gave me the key to the network but I couldnt get in (probably all ports are occupied by the youngsters). So I asked him for Hostels and he geve me some directions. But I found another hotel – Kings – and he had a room for 500 ARS so I took that. In the room it was awfully hot so I asked the guy how to lower – Open the window was the response. Well, global heating …
No fullmoon eclipse due to rain ;o(( .. Juan Carlso in Viña instead saw it ;o(( should have stayed longer. I went to the bar area but due to sunday night even the irish pub had closed. Well, I found a bar with a bit live music stayed there for two cups of wine (i had not enough ARS ;o( ..) and went to the hotel.
Next moring I went to town to change money and got 1 USD to 15.3 ARS change. Picked the bus to El Bolson and then a Remise to Mallin Ahogado CIDEP where Caro and Edu live. Received a very warm welcome. As I am writing this with delay I do not refer for this with dates and also the most important things.
One day – I guess it was wednesday ;o) – we, Caro, Edu and I, went with the horses to handover a horse to some old landowners in the next valley. We left late as the weather didnt seem to be impressive in the morning but... it was awesome in the afternoon. Caro decided herself very late so she came with us w/o food. Her horse is called 'poca plata' as Edu bought it for little money, a very good horse. The way was incredible through nearly untouched land and we had to pay attention that no branch hits us or the horse doesnt pass a tree to close – because of our knees. It was a 3 hrs ride and was espectacular. Actually only 2hrs but I needed 1hr to take my pics. Down there only fernando was there as one (all the hermanos – brothers and sisters live there) of the hermanos was in the hospital, so Edu was a bit disappointed as he told us with the both oldies its nice to take pics and sit together. But with Fernando it was nice sufficiently. We drank mate with him in his wrecked down jacket (mottenzerfressen), with just a reduced amount of teeth – a fiest for dentists - and his boina. He saw him probably the first time in a film – I took one with my mobile – and he gave some comments about his uglyness but he started to comb his hair to look good ;o)) ..
Later his sister (well with no teeth) and the older brother – 79 – appeared, wow nice clothes, well polished shoes but also not much teeth either. He didnt like the horse as it was skinny. We had a short chat and then left home as it was already darkening.
It was strange to ride the horses in the dark but Edu said he loves it and the horses are obviously more relaxed. It seems that they see much better in the dark then myself. We arrove around 10pm at night, what a day.
Well, the next day Edu took me again to cajon azul as he had 2 people from BSAS going up. It was a young couple and the girl had quite some fear. She was more or less the first time on a horse, and I remember the first time going up there, not easy, but now I am a Gaucho, not complete but close. We went up and had a sunny day. Had some Pizza in the refugio and some – shitty – home made beer, but the owner was proud so we told him goooood beeeeer ;o). On the way back we dropped the 2 people at wharton – meeting point – and I wanted also to unmount the horse. I slipped out of the Estribo (dont know the english name so spanish has to do it) but said to myself – I am big so I dont need to go back in - well, should better have done it as I literally fell off the horse as it is a bit taller then my legs are long. Luckily I had the horse gear in hand so the horse cannot run away. But Edu yelled leave the gear – I guess probably it would have been able to drag me back to the cajon on my bag. So I let it go, now I have a middlefinger quite thick, and I got according comments from Edu. Also there were some other gauchos sitting at the corner and I think they had fun seeing this fat gringo on his back like a beetle. Edu said no prob everybody has to fell at least once off the horse (or whores ;o) .. ), so I consider myself now a baptised Gaucho, Che viste ;).
We both went into Warton to kill my pain and to have a homemade beer and this one was very good.
Sabado un dia sencillo. Invité a Caro y Edu a la parilla en el pueblo. Caro quisera hacer una reservacion pero la chica en el telephon dijo es lleno pero solo podemos …. ups now I think I am in spanish mode, I didnt realize I wrote in spanisch. Ok, saturday was an easy going day. I invited Caro and Edu for a parilla in town. Caro wanted to make a reservation but the girl on the phone said its not possible as its already full but we should just come and soon there will be space. Well, we went and had to wait over an hour. At least I had a Pisco Sour, or hmm two as Caro just drank a bit of hers. Andrej a neighbour who is teacher in secondary (I saw him the first time with his zipper open and the trouser broken inbetween the legs .. swinging balls) came also. We had a good time there and I commented to the waiter (obviously a boss or similiar) that she better should tell if there is no space for the next hour, and also that in a restaurant they want to be – upper class – a bottle of white wine comes with a cooler. This resulted in two small bottles of champagne ;o).
We went after that to a boliche, but it was empty. The band still worked on their equipment and as they more or less had been ready to play at 2:30 am we left because we had been tired. Still the boliche was more or less empty. We carried our beer to the remise and went home (Andrej with his moto .. hmpf).
As the Remise driver told that there is horse racing in Bolson I told Edu I want to go there. He as well wanted but got in the morning a call from his former socio who invited him to BBQ, so I went alone. Its quite interesting and I could not say whether its boring or interesting interesting. But its strange. Between each race there is round about 1 hr brake, but this is used to introduce the horses and also that the guys can bet on the horses. And there is a lot of betting. There had been 9 races and it was really difficult to catch a good photo so it needs also a lot of experience. I met there Dario and Ruben with eyes like tankdrivers. They told that they had been yesterday in the boliche (disco) next to ours and had not been sleeping. I guess this was the truth.
For the last 3 races Edu was also there coming from his asado. The horses are really pretty but also really nervous and Edu told they are all doped. After the races we went shopping and also treating our dry lips.
Its cool there at the Chacra – country house – because more or less nearly every night they had visits, which is also agotado – exhaustive. We had nearly every night asado from Edus fridge, except one night where I made Spaetzle Patagonia. This was because I had to improvise as there was more or less nothing to make them so I had to make them from the tablet, which I swore never to do it again, as it is a hell of a work. And a lot of vino ;o). Caro makes home made bread and Hefezopf ;o) rico, but we also bought pan francés in the Anonima supermarket.
As we had been invited to the Warton pub for the birthday of Mariana we bought in town a good bottle of wine, a flower and the rest for us: Wine, Beer some food for the next days cabalgata and and and. As like real gauchos we went by horse 7pm to the birthday place 5 km away. There only some people had been there but it was nice with home made pizza (always some spices and salt is missing) beer and wine, and also the possibility of weed which I rejected as I rather zip on beer or wine. Around 11pm in total darkness, as it was snowing, we rode back. This was a cool experience seeing nothing but having the horse under control. Next morning we wanted to leave early to the oldies, but returning to the chacra we took a night cup for each leg which resulted in three ;o).
Hmm, it snowed quite a bit during the night and in the moring the sky was in clouds, so we all three didnt leave the bed too early. But as Edu had to bring the next horse to the oldies and also a Border Collie Cachorro (Welpe) he needed to go. I checked briefly the sky and for me it looked like there was a good chance to have no rain or snow, so I also wanted to go. Finally we left around 11am. Picking up the cachorro – I wanted immediately to have it – in the nearby chacra where his dog mated the female. The small one had just 6 weeks and was really more or less helpless but so cute. Then we moved on the same way we went last week but with some snow and wet bushes, so I had quite some clothes but it was even better than the last time, che.
We arrove at the house and this time Fernando and his brother were there, both in working clothes. Totally differnt this time. We had some mate, I could take some pics from the guys and the old one was happy now with his new horse. We left after an hour or so the chacra and the old gaucho came with us. What a shame he gave me, he mounted his horse w/o help of a rock or a trunk, I still needed a trunk. Just before we left his land of 2000 ha we made a rest. He made quickly a fire, we had the beer, salami and cheese I bought and off he was. We returned happy to the chacra and as Caro liked the Spaetzle I made Spaetzle Patagonia again, and this time not as Kaesspaetzle but with redwine sauce, wow you can call me now Maetre de la Cuisine Patagonia.
Finally my time in Mallin Ahogado was over, but now I am thinking buying me some land there. I packed my stuff said goodbye and thanks for makeing me to a Gaucho and was off to the Saccomanos. I also heard in the radio that there is a Jineteada in Cipolleti on Sunday, so I want to go there.