Klaus ist dann mal weg

Klaus ist dann mal weg

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Klaus genießt sein sabbatical year und reist um die Welt ...

17.-25.Okt - The North West with the Chiquitita (Susan)

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Fri, November 13, 2015 15:26:24

17.Oktober BSAS and up to Tucumán

Again late start but I had to be at the BaB at 11:30 so I left the house and picked a remise, unfortunately the driver didnt know where this place was, and I didnt remember completely. So we where searching and I had the fear that we will be very late but we made it in time. The couple Cecile (a french) and Adrian and I worked for an hour and then we had to stop as Adrian had to work. Was very effective and very good results.

After return we ate a bit of the meat from yesterday had a beer infront of his house and around 6pm Susan came to pic me up. We went with the bus to the terminal in retiro and got on the bus to tucumán 16hrs, wow. On the bus we had films and food and wine.

18.Oktober Tucumán

We arrove 10:30 in Tucumán and went to the information desk to get an afternoon excursion but there was none due to mothersday ok so we went to the hostel La Gurda, checked in into a dorm (very very nice hostel) and walked some blocks to a peña und heared live music for an hour. Then we went to another one but there everything was already over … well so back to the city booked sound and light show tickets for 9 pm in the casa de independencia. Tucumán was where the independenia was signed. We booked an excursion to Cafayate via Taffi del Valle for the next day and then went to see the sound and light. Well it was not like at the pyramides or in luxor, but quite nicely done. Afterwards we watched a bit the milonga directly aside of the casa and went to the hostel

19.Oktober Cafayate – Salta

Sergio picked us up from the hostel at 7.30 and we drove via Taffi del valle to Cafayate. At the beginning it was all green like mountain djungle and then suddenly became very arid as we passed the first peaks in 3000 m. We visited the small town of Taffi which is really nice but not much to do. We had there great Empanadas. We continued and we could decide between Quilmes and Museo Pachamama, so we did for Pachamama. A really nicely done museum. After an hour we continued to cafayate (btw we have now 35 degrees). Cafayate is a small city but well known for the wineries here. Vino Blanco, the grape is called Torrotes. But they have also Malbec and Cabernet. We had a lunch where we shared the menue cazuela de cordero empanadas and icecream, rico …. Sergio told us he would us bring directly to salta for 600 more each. We thought shortly and decided yes thats cool.

Before we went to Salta, we visited a winery where they offered a white and a redwine. Quite good but I do not remember more. We passed quebrada de la concha with incredible Rock Formations, then Alemania and around 7pm we had been in Salta 'La Linda'. I selected the hostel from the lonely planet 'Salta por Siempre' and checked into a dorm for 140 ARG. The hostel was nice. I got a messsage from Caro that they are also in Salta, so we agreed to meet around 10pm at the plaza.

It was a big hello and we sat together drank and made our plans. We agreed that i rent a car and that they will join for one day and then carry on through bolivia. So I checked for rentacar and had one for 700 ARG with 300 km per day. I asked the receptionist and she got me one for 550, so I took that. It will be handed over at 2pm the next day.

20.Oktober MaaM, Yungas and Purmamarca

We met with Edu and Caro in the town and went to the MaaM – Museo andina alta Montaña or s.th. Similar, where they exhibit one of the childs found on the vulcan. I knew that already but I liked to see it again … foreigners 70 ARG locals 50 ARG.

The car was handed over at the hotel and Caro and Edu came to the hotel. We left around 3:30 and headed through the yungas to Purmamarca. The yungas there are really nice and worthwile traveling slowlier than we did. Then we went up direction Purmamarca and stopped in a small city where Caro said there is a Galpón (stable). There the handmade ponchos where around 850-900 ARG and I thought about to buy one, but as my backpack is already really full I didnt.

We arrove around 8pm at Purmamarca and we checked for hostels or hotels, but everything was quite expensive. Susan and Edu went of and negotiated a very good hotel price 500 for each doubleroom. We had the rooms on the 2nd floor with a terasse and a direct view to the 7 colors wow. Edu got a key and Caro, as they thought blancos with blancos and marrones with marrones. So we enjoyed a bottle of redwine with that view. Later we went to a restaurant with live music and ate Lama. Hmm very hard so not my next choice anymore. But the lama was nicely presented especially the one plate caro had selected.

Edu feixte all night long as I had a double with Susan about having sex with her, well …..

21.Oktober – Purmamarca – Humahuaco – Villazon (Bolivia)

We had a relatively late start with a brillant view to the 7 colours, then breakfast with orange juice freshly made. We went to the market and were surprised as the ponchos where even cheaper and nicely made (450 ARG – 45 Euro normal and 30 blue Euro). Also there was a nice knife for 1200. hmm need to check tomorrow, probably i will buy me a poncho and a knife.

At 10:30 we made us on our way to Tilcara, Humamaca did a stop there to see the San Franzisco leaving his hut … I guess it kitschig but well a lot of tourists were waiting. After that Caro invited us to Empanadas which were really great and fruit salat even better. We went up to the statue and made photos of us aside of the giant Cardones – Candelaber Cactus. Then carried on to the altiplano on 3400-3700m height and ended finally on the border to bolivia. We crossed the border by feet and left the car in the parking nearby.

In Villazon there are a lot of Cambios and that was what I was searching for. So I went to an ATM took out 6000 bolivianos and changed it into USD so this problem is solved ;o). Edu and Caro checked for a connection deeper into bolivia and finally we had a goodbye beer together, actually 2 ;o) for every feet one, the middle feet didnt count as we didnt have enough time.

We started our return at 6 and had been in Purmamarca around 8:30 pm. A long day and I was quite exhausted. We strolled a bit through the pueblo and went into another restaurant for food, also with life music.

22.Oktober Salinas Grandes – San Antonio de los Cobres – Salta

Well, shopping resulted in nothing. The guy with the knife was not there so I could not negotiate to 1000ARG and I had no sense for carrying the poncho all around but it was really nice ;o(. Grabbed my laundry and we left Purmamarca. At the townborder I was stopped by the police and thought they stopped me because I have honked the horn as a bus didnt move and blocked the whole street, but no they were hitchhiking ;o) but I was going to the wrong city.

We had to pass a paso on 4000 m and the landscape was just incredible. The salinas didnt touch me to much. I think that had to do with Uyuni as Uyuni is much bigger. We than went on a gravel road 120km to San antonio de los cobres with a landscape which was espectacular.

In San Antonio there is the dog burried, not much to do, so we decided not to stay there but just have a soup and continue direction Salta. The road from San Antonio back to Salta is one of the highlight landscapes here, wow wow wow.

We were stopped again by the police because there was a teacher waiting to be taken to Salta so we took her with us. Our plan was to stay the night outside of salta to be able to go up to Cachi, but as Cachi had been 160 km we decided different as it would have been a too long drive as we had to drop the car at 2pm the next day.

We returned around 9pm checked into our hostel. Susan wanted a double so we used a double and not a dorm and went thereafter to the city to have some empenadas and beer (beer at least for me ;o)).

23.-25. Oktober Salta

After breakfast we went to the quebrada of San Lorenzo. San Lorenzo is a nice, clean town. There must live a lot of wealthy people according to the houses. The quebrada is nothing very special but nice to walk a bit. We returned to the city where I dropped of the car and Susan wanted to by some sweets and her bus ticket for the next day.

Also I found a barber so I could finally get my shave. Did a good job for 150 ARG got my head and my face shaved ;o) I was so happy to get my wool off.

At night we went to the Casona de los Molinos to enjoy live music and we stayed there from 9 to 3am and I was good conditioned ;o).

Next moring we went to town, she did a bit shopping and I checked also for the bus to Tucumán and got a busticket on the same bus as Susan (290 ARS). We went to the ITAU museum and as we passed the museum I saw that they do swan lake tonite, shoot and I have bought my busticket already and the shop was closed for siesta. Well, I decided to try then in teh busterminal whether I can change the ticket to sunday. We had still some time so I went back to the shop where they sold knifes and I liked two of them one with leather handle for 790 ARG and one with horn handle and a nice 'Scheide' for 2000 ARG. If they would have given me 20% I would have bought both but they offered me only 10% so I didnt by them.

In the bus terminal I could change the ticket with a change fee so I said good bye to Susan and went back to the hostel. The show was free at 21 pm and the entrance was on first come first serve basis. So I decided to be there aroun 7 pm and if there is noone i would have a beer first. Well, there was one, a queue of around 100m, so I stayed in line learning spanish vocab.

I got a very good seat and it was the first time to see swanlake in life and it was spectacular. I draw the correct decision loved it. Had some wine in the hostal and then went to bed.

Sunday the day to leave 'La Linda'. Easy morning, left the hostel at 12 and at the terminal I saw a whatsapp of Caro telling they are in Salta again because it was so shitty in bolivia. She sent an SMS on my argentinian phone but I do not have it online all the time. What a pity. They where yesterday again in the casona. Menno I could have been there at least one hour and also stay a day longer ;o((

Anyways now I am on my way to Tucumán. Probably we meet in stgo del estero or in corrientes.

13.-16.Okt - Tandil & BSAS

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Fri, November 13, 2015 15:21:45

13.Oktober Tandil – 15.Oktober

I wanted to take the first bus to tandil, but it was all fully booked so I took the next one 14 s.th. And arrove 2 hrs later in tandil. I wanted to go into a hotel suggested by lonely planet but the remise driver suggested to go into another one so I took that (Roma) which was good quality but also a bit more expensive (450 ARS). But it was in a nice area. Dropped my stuff and asked around where I could change blue dollars, but nobody know. So I decided to wait until tomorrow and if I do not find someone I need to take money out of the ATM. So I walked a bit the center and then went into a bar which was suggested to me because of life music. But today there was none. The people where really friendly so I stayed two beers and I start to talk to the owners asking them whether they know somebody to change money. They said no but they looked for somebody. And luckily there came one. He was not an official changer so he asked me how I could proove that the money is real. I couldnt tell him, well at least I got 200 USD for 1:15 changed (in BSAS 1:16). I finished my beer and returned to the hotel

14.Oktober Tandil

Early morning I brought my laundry to wash and after that I wanted to have lunch in this famous cheese restaurant, so I went there but it was closed. So I checked the map and decided first to go to the calvario and then doing part of the historic circuit. It was a nice walk and as my lips got dry I took my first beer. Returned to the hostel around 7, picked up my laundry and had a good talk with the owner. I asked him for a good Parillada and he pointed me to a tenedor libre (all you can eat) as he said he probably will make it around 9 pm I went there. Normally I do not like the ALL YOU CAN EAT as the quality is good but not very high. I waited until 9:15 but he didnt show up so I ordered. As I assumed, the meat was good but not as good as it is in an 'a la carte'.

Now it started to rain and I had not my raincoat with me so I waited a glass of wine more ;o) until it was not as heavy anymore. Walking to the live music place as they said me it starts at 11pm. I reached the place 10 minutes before 11 pm and it was closed. So I thought shit but suddenly the owner came from inside and opened. Hmmm, life music and no one inside, what kind of event will this be. I decided to drink a beer and leave afterwards. But suddenly a guy came in with guitar and 2 guests. He started to play quarter past and suddenly more and more people came. It was an argentinan caraoke or jam session, like it was in my early days in los gatos, california. So the night turned out incredible. Very very good mood or buena onda. I left at 2:30 am but the others kept on going – all above the 70ies.

15.Oktober Tandil → BSAS

The bus to BSAS left around 1pm so I had time a bit to walk again through the city looking for knifes, there where good shops but I couldnt decide Also I went to the Museum of bellas artes. Probably I apply with my pics for an exhibition next year.


I arrove around 5pm in Retiro, took a cab to Alejandro. Had to send him an SMS as his doorbell doesnt work. Suddenly he opened the door with a welcome package in his hand, Redwine ;o)). With a very warm welcome we went to his flat, high ceilings and Patina. This would be really good for pics I thought. We had some more wine and alejandro prepared some meat and potatos and tomato salad ;o). We went to the Buquebus (no the other one) terminal as I wanted to go for a day to Colonia in Uruguay to get dollars. But I could not by tickets today and I should come tomorrow at 6:30 to by the ticket. No thats not for me so I skipped this idea and we returned. To Alejandros place.

Around 9pm we left the house and went to a Milonga in Cochabamba street. Wow quite full and there was a tango class running. We sat in the background and had a beer and some empanadas (incredible cheap in the middle of SAN TELMO). We had another beer and then we left to a typical Pulperia (gaucho restaurant with supermarket). There we had another redwine and around 1 am we returned to the Milonga. Wow, full full full and a lot of pretty chics. I need to learn tango. There we stayed until 3 am and where quite done ;o).

16.Oktober BSAS

Friday and I was dead. Alejandro left to run and I just stayed a bit longer in bed. On return we showered and we walked in direction La Boca where we wanted to have lunch. We went to Boca a Boca as there a friend of Alejandro – Rita works and lives nearby. We got a menu for 80 pesos with very good quality and rita also participated. The place is at night a Tango bar and I explained Rita I am desperately looking for a tango couple to take pictures of. So she told me she will ask around as she knows that a lot of tango dancers search for photographers which take little or no money.

We left for La Boca to have a short walk and a beer. We said good bye to rita and returned home to buy meat and chinchilines to have on the terasse of alejandro BBQ or Asado with some friends. But before we went to the pulperia drank some wine and played table soccer and some kind of old game with a frog where you need to through a chip into the frogs mouth. We were already pretty tipsy but hat a lot of fun. Bought meat and veggies and …. Wine what else ;o)). We prepared everything and used his electrical stove. His friends came around 11 pm and we started to eat. The chinchulines were really great and this was the first time he made them. We drank, ate, chatted and smoked some weed.Really a cool evening. I received a sms from Rita that there is a couple available at 11:30 until 12:30 to make the shooting, woooowwwww.

08.-12.Okt. Bariloche & Jineteadas in Cipoletti & Azul

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Fri, November 13, 2015 15:19:14

08.October – 10.October

Left El Bolson with a busride with landscape incredible to Bariloche. Took a Taxi to Melipal for 140 ARS and met Tania again after 3 years. What a surprise, she is mother of a cute 17 months old Paloma, running around but not talking yet but so cute. Didnt leave the house and went early to bed.

Next day really a late start as the house is really quiet and i could have stayed all day long in bed, but I wanted to see s.th.. So I went by bus to the skiing area cerro catedral. Unfortunately the highest point was shut as the cable carril was closed, so I just went up to diente del caballo. Not espectacular but nice and I could take some timelaps.

Invited Tania and Leo to the parilla where I was already 6 years ago 'Boliche del Alberto' and we had really great food. Everything was good, salad, fries, meat .. wow vale la pena. And the price was higher but ok.

Late wakeup and hanging around in bed. Leo brought me to the bus terminal to drop off the baggage and then to playa linda. There I stayed quite some time and went then to the city to check the bars Leo had mentioned. Konna was really good and shity that the baggage drop closes at 10 pm so I had to leave earlier as my bus leaves at 11:15 ;o(( but at least I could catchup with my BLOG.

Now waiting for the bus 21 o'clock

11.Oktober Cipoletti

well the bus ride was not bad but arriving in cipoletti around 5:30 am was a bit hard. At least I could charge my batteries in the cafeteria. Nobody knew about a Jineteada in cipoletti, well, I guess I am a real gaucho now ;o). at around 7 the cafeteria opened and I got my coffee and medialuna. I couldn get rid of my backpack as there was no luggage store in the terminal, what a shit! Suddenly somebody ticked me from behind, it was Andrés who came back from Tucuman with his students. Strange, 600km away from El Bolson and we met in a busterminal with a great hello. I bought my ticket from cipoletti to Azul because there is tomorrow a Jineteada.

Somebody knew that there is at 4 corners a Jineteada. So I took a cab to the domo (the stadion) and yes there was one. The cab driver told me its easy to pickup a taxi back to town. Nobody wanted to keep an eye on my stuff as I had to carry all my belongings. Finally I found in the beer stand someone who took it and now I enjoyed my time here. It was a pretty big event with three palenkes (poles) where they tie the horses prior to mount them. Quite some wild one. The place was much bigger then the one in el bolson. It was the qualification for Jesus Maria in january near cordoba, which is the national championship. I got no meat as there was a long queue so I enjoyed a beer more instead ;o). around 5:30 the jineteada was over and they played chamame and other music to dance. I went to the road to pick up easily a taxi, but there was none. So I tried hitch hiking. Well, nobody, really nobody stopped for more then 90 minutes, and I was afraid that I loose my bus to Azul. More or less in the last minute one stopped and also brougth me directly to the terminal, just in time. And the bus left.

12.Oktober Azul

The bus did not stop at the terminal but directly on the highway to BSAS so I took a remis to the terminal and there direct opposite side was a hostal. Normally the quality is not so good – remember the Jodel Class in corrientes – but for the price this was excellent – 220 ARG and breakfast inclusive. I took a breakfast with 2 croissants (medialunas) and it costed 30 ARG so quite a deal. Then I took a cab to the Domo and I got my De Ja Vú as the cabdriver told me its easy to grab a taxi … well lets see.

The place was a bit smaller but it liked it more and also I was allowed to go to the grounds so I had a really good view on the event. Here they also did a horserace around the barrels. Lunch break and I got my second De Ja Vú: For the Asado there was no cutlery (like a year ago in Villa Lia) so I did what I needed to do and bought me a knife. This time a more cheaper one, went back and the guy asked me whether I want 1kg of chorizo I said no its to much but I was ashamed to ask for less then 500 g as a real gaucho its for breakfast this amount. It came and I guess it was more than 500g rather 700g. So I started to eat but I just could eat 1/3 so I gave it to an elderly couple nearby and they happily accepted it. As it was warm I had not much with me only my Müllabfuhr top, but as soon as the sun was gone it became chilly. Well, the jineteada was over and they had now chamame life music but as it was cold I just stayed 3 songs.

Outside at the road: Easy pickup of a taxi .. hehehe …. there was none. So I asked the policemen whether they could help. They could, one of them called a remise which took about 15 minutes to arrive. In the meantime the police left, the pickup of them had no working rear lights and this applied also to one of the two motorcycles, so easy going here or? ;o))

I returned to the to the hotel dropped my stuff and took a remise to the city center. It must be really rich in the 20ies as a lot of belle epoque houses had been on the way but not good maintained. Made a short sight seeing and then went for a wine (bottle ;o)..) to a RestoBar. There I enjoyed the wine and returned then to the hotel.

27.September - 08.Oktober (Santiago / Bariloche / El Bolson)

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Mon, November 02, 2015 11:33:13


My taxi came a bit early but I was ready. In the airport everything was going smooth and soon I was on board (tiny chileans dont need much space but I do ;o((( . ). Luckily it was just a short flight but unluckily I did not see the vulcanos. I took the shuttle to the busterminal to realize that the next bus will go to bariloche at 3pm now it was 10:00 ;o(. At least I saw a traditional dance in the terminal. Thought to myself well lets got to the center for some coffee but I walked in vane as nothing had open on a sunday moring. So I decided to go to the fishermen wharf where I was already 4 years ago.

Shitty weather but at least most of the things in the Mercado Angelmo was inside. Had a good view on sealions and also the folclore group was dancing here, much nicer then in the busterminal amongst the fish ;o)... Had some Congrio soup (incredible, I'll miss chile for the seafood), and as an appetizer I got Ceviche from smoked salmon, this nearly beat the palmheart ceviche, wow wow wow.

So I am not able to make it to El Bolson and hoped to see the blood moon in Bariloche, but first we have to go there. At the frontier there was snow on the road (wintertime in spring, like in germany). Finally we arrove around 9:30 pm at the terminal bariloche. Unluckily my mobile dropped and I lost the info about the hostels. I went with the bus as infront of the taxistand there where waiting 6 people and for more than 15 minutes no taxi came. I went into the bus and there was the argentinian problem again, no cash ;o( but luckily somebody paid with his card the 6 pesos and I paid him in cash. The bus dropped me off in the center and now where to go. Well, I tried a hotel but it was full with spring breakers or s.th. Similar. The receptionist gave me the key to the network but I couldnt get in (probably all ports are occupied by the youngsters). So I asked him for Hostels and he geve me some directions. But I found another hotel – Kings – and he had a room for 500 ARS so I took that. In the room it was awfully hot so I asked the guy how to lower – Open the window was the response. Well, global heating …

No fullmoon eclipse due to rain ;o(( .. Juan Carlso in Viña instead saw it ;o(( should have stayed longer. I went to the bar area but due to sunday night even the irish pub had closed. Well, I found a bar with a bit live music stayed there for two cups of wine (i had not enough ARS ;o( ..) and went to the hotel.

28.September – 08.October

Next moring I went to town to change money and got 1 USD to 15.3 ARS change. Picked the bus to El Bolson and then a Remise to Mallin Ahogado CIDEP where Caro and Edu live. Received a very warm welcome. As I am writing this with delay I do not refer for this with dates and also the most important things.

One day – I guess it was wednesday ;o) – we, Caro, Edu and I, went with the horses to handover a horse to some old landowners in the next valley. We left late as the weather didnt seem to be impressive in the morning but... it was awesome in the afternoon. Caro decided herself very late so she came with us w/o food. Her horse is called 'poca plata' as Edu bought it for little money, a very good horse. The way was incredible through nearly untouched land and we had to pay attention that no branch hits us or the horse doesnt pass a tree to close – because of our knees. It was a 3 hrs ride and was espectacular. Actually only 2hrs but I needed 1hr to take my pics. Down there only fernando was there as one (all the hermanos – brothers and sisters live there) of the hermanos was in the hospital, so Edu was a bit disappointed as he told us with the both oldies its nice to take pics and sit together. But with Fernando it was nice sufficiently. We drank mate with him in his wrecked down jacket (mottenzerfressen), with just a reduced amount of teeth – a fiest for dentists - and his boina. He saw him probably the first time in a film – I took one with my mobile – and he gave some comments about his uglyness but he started to comb his hair to look good ;o)) ..

Later his sister (well with no teeth) and the older brother – 79 – appeared, wow nice clothes, well polished shoes but also not much teeth either. He didnt like the horse as it was skinny. We had a short chat and then left home as it was already darkening.

It was strange to ride the horses in the dark but Edu said he loves it and the horses are obviously more relaxed. It seems that they see much better in the dark then myself. We arrove around 10pm at night, what a day.

Well, the next day Edu took me again to cajon azul as he had 2 people from BSAS going up. It was a young couple and the girl had quite some fear. She was more or less the first time on a horse, and I remember the first time going up there, not easy, but now I am a Gaucho, not complete but close. We went up and had a sunny day. Had some Pizza in the refugio and some – shitty – home made beer, but the owner was proud so we told him goooood beeeeer ;o). On the way back we dropped the 2 people at wharton – meeting point – and I wanted also to unmount the horse. I slipped out of the Estribo (dont know the english name so spanish has to do it) but said to myself – I am big so I dont need to go back in - well, should better have done it as I literally fell off the horse as it is a bit taller then my legs are long. Luckily I had the horse gear in hand so the horse cannot run away. But Edu yelled leave the gear – I guess probably it would have been able to drag me back to the cajon on my bag. So I let it go, now I have a middlefinger quite thick, and I got according comments from Edu. Also there were some other gauchos sitting at the corner and I think they had fun seeing this fat gringo on his back like a beetle. Edu said no prob everybody has to fell at least once off the horse (or whores ;o) .. ), so I consider myself now a baptised Gaucho, Che viste ;).

We both went into Warton to kill my pain and to have a homemade beer and this one was very good.

Sabado un dia sencillo. Invité a Caro y Edu a la parilla en el pueblo. Caro quisera hacer una reservacion pero la chica en el telephon dijo es lleno pero solo podemos …. ups now I think I am in spanish mode, I didnt realize I wrote in spanisch. Ok, saturday was an easy going day. I invited Caro and Edu for a parilla in town. Caro wanted to make a reservation but the girl on the phone said its not possible as its already full but we should just come and soon there will be space. Well, we went and had to wait over an hour. At least I had a Pisco Sour, or hmm two as Caro just drank a bit of hers. Andrej a neighbour who is teacher in secondary (I saw him the first time with his zipper open and the trouser broken inbetween the legs .. swinging balls) came also. We had a good time there and I commented to the waiter (obviously a boss or similiar) that she better should tell if there is no space for the next hour, and also that in a restaurant they want to be – upper class – a bottle of white wine comes with a cooler. This resulted in two small bottles of champagne ;o).

We went after that to a boliche, but it was empty. The band still worked on their equipment and as they more or less had been ready to play at 2:30 am we left because we had been tired. Still the boliche was more or less empty. We carried our beer to the remise and went home (Andrej with his moto .. hmpf).

As the Remise driver told that there is horse racing in Bolson I told Edu I want to go there. He as well wanted but got in the morning a call from his former socio who invited him to BBQ, so I went alone. Its quite interesting and I could not say whether its boring or interesting interesting. But its strange. Between each race there is round about 1 hr brake, but this is used to introduce the horses and also that the guys can bet on the horses. And there is a lot of betting. There had been 9 races and it was really difficult to catch a good photo so it needs also a lot of experience. I met there Dario and Ruben with eyes like tankdrivers. They told that they had been yesterday in the boliche (disco) next to ours and had not been sleeping. I guess this was the truth.

For the last 3 races Edu was also there coming from his asado. The horses are really pretty but also really nervous and Edu told they are all doped. After the races we went shopping and also treating our dry lips.

Its cool there at the Chacra – country house – because more or less nearly every night they had visits, which is also agotado – exhaustive. We had nearly every night asado from Edus fridge, except one night where I made Spaetzle Patagonia. This was because I had to improvise as there was more or less nothing to make them so I had to make them from the tablet, which I swore never to do it again, as it is a hell of a work. And a lot of vino ;o). Caro makes home made bread and Hefezopf ;o) rico, but we also bought pan francés in the Anonima supermarket.

As we had been invited to the Warton pub for the birthday of Mariana we bought in town a good bottle of wine, a flower and the rest for us: Wine, Beer some food for the next days cabalgata and and and. As like real gauchos we went by horse 7pm to the birthday place 5 km away. There only some people had been there but it was nice with home made pizza (always some spices and salt is missing) beer and wine, and also the possibility of weed which I rejected as I rather zip on beer or wine. Around 11pm in total darkness, as it was snowing, we rode back. This was a cool experience seeing nothing but having the horse under control. Next morning we wanted to leave early to the oldies, but returning to the chacra we took a night cup for each leg which resulted in three ;o).

Hmm, it snowed quite a bit during the night and in the moring the sky was in clouds, so we all three didnt leave the bed too early. But as Edu had to bring the next horse to the oldies and also a Border Collie Cachorro (Welpe) he needed to go. I checked briefly the sky and for me it looked like there was a good chance to have no rain or snow, so I also wanted to go. Finally we left around 11am. Picking up the cachorro – I wanted immediately to have it – in the nearby chacra where his dog mated the female. The small one had just 6 weeks and was really more or less helpless but so cute. Then we moved on the same way we went last week but with some snow and wet bushes, so I had quite some clothes but it was even better than the last time, che.

We arrove at the house and this time Fernando and his brother were there, both in working clothes. Totally differnt this time. We had some mate, I could take some pics from the guys and the old one was happy now with his new horse. We left after an hour or so the chacra and the old gaucho came with us. What a shame he gave me, he mounted his horse w/o help of a rock or a trunk, I still needed a trunk. Just before we left his land of 2000 ha we made a rest. He made quickly a fire, we had the beer, salami and cheese I bought and off he was. We returned happy to the chacra and as Caro liked the Spaetzle I made Spaetzle Patagonia again, and this time not as Kaesspaetzle but with redwine sauce, wow you can call me now Maetre de la Cuisine Patagonia.

Finally my time in Mallin Ahogado was over, but now I am thinking buying me some land there. I packed my stuff said goodbye and thanks for makeing me to a Gaucho and was off to the Saccomanos. I also heard in the radio that there is a Jineteada in Cipolleti on Sunday, so I want to go there.

21.-26. September - Vina del Mar

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Mon, October 26, 2015 13:09:07

21.September - Leaving Carocas

As I guessed I had my problems leaving the Carocas so I was really late in going to the bus on monday. Rosa went with me to the ticket counter and bought the ticket from Rancagua to STGO and from STGO to Viña del Mar. She gave a half an hour buffer so it seemed to be fine

Well, the good bye felt hard, Gustavo and Nelson came with us – to ensure that I am really leaving? ;o) I guess no! Kisses and handshakes and I was off with the bus.

Well, I guess there was lot of traffic and I needed to be there at 20:11 at the connecting bus. We just arrove at 20:08 and I had to check where the bus left as the track anounced on my ticket was empty. The bus was already about to leave as I found it and luckily he stopped and I could get on.

2 hours later I was in Viña. I tried to reach Juan – Johannes – but it was really tricky to find out what I had to dial, and the shop assistants did not really know, but finally I managed it. Juan already was in the busstation waiting for me. He picked me up with a warm welcome and we went to home of the Torres. Irma was already waiting there and luckily they did not have to eat as I had still enough food in my stomach from the Carocas. But Irma made as Dip Guacamole and some chips, and a lot of beer ;o)). We went to bed late around 2 am.

22.September - Tuesday

Johannes and I had a very late start around 12. He made some breakfast and at 1 pm we went to Viña because I liked ot make my Tax stuff and the Shares stuff already long ago pending. Luckily I could do everything so a heavy load is off my shoulders. Also we went to buy an external drive for my as my other one is still in El Calafate ;o(. 1 TB drive was quite cheap here in Chile as there are not the taxes of Argentina. In Argentina its now really expensive to buy things.

We picked up Irma from her work and went to the supermarket to get some bread, veggies and wine. Then we returned to the home and we started to do a BBQ also Caro came to share. Strange the girls here are doing the BBQ and not the men. Juan put a lot of meat on the BBQ and we drank some beer and some (a lot of very good) red wine. After the BBQ Irma had some Guinda (Sauerkirsch Likör) which was really good (2 years aged). It looked that Johannes had a real good buzz. We went all to bed around 3 am .. hmfp .. party .. Well Juan still is on sick leave because of his shoulder


Hehehe, Juan really had a hangover but as we had some time he could get over it. Today I will visit Belén de la Aldea SOS together with Caro. As Isabel (the SOS Mother) wrote me that it would be nice for her to have a smart fone (cheap one) I checked it in the shops there. Well, around 100 Euro, what the hack, I bought one. As we had been delayed I wrote Isabel that we are coming 1 hour later.

Arriving in the Aldea it was a big hello aaaannnnddd, they had been all waiting with their lunch. So we shared lunch with all the kids and Isabel. There we stayed around 4 hours and had a really good time with all of them.

Juan picked us up with Irma and we dropped of Caro and returned to home. This night not too long


We went to Valparaiso to meet with Juans son for dinner. Prior we went to laguna verde and to the prison ;o) .. We had a dinner in a restaurant which is shared with a photography store doing also this antique shots. And I wanted one but it seems that one needs reservation. We had a really nice dinner and after that we went up with a escalator to have a nice view over the bay.

We went back to viña and tried to find the 'Café con Piernas' indicated by Caro. We found it but it seems to be a night club and therefore was still closed ;o(( .. at least I saw before a presentation of Cueca, a traditional Chilenean dance.

At 6 we went to pickup Irma, and went to Paulina and her husbands flat in a 25 floor building with great views, but I think during an earthquake I wouldnt like it too much. Well, PauTi said it was not too bad (can I believe that?). We went up to the top floor an there they have swimming pool and BBQ, so I guess I need to return in summer ;o)). Around 8 we picked up Caro as I invited all of them for supper. We had an impressive drive with lookouts over the bay along the costanera until near KonKon. Unfortunately I forgot the name of the restaurant, but we had really good seafood, hmmm riccccooooo.


Time to say goodbye. Finally ;o( .. Last day, so we took it easy went again to Viña a bit and afterwards we are carretear in Quilpue because Juan doesnt need to drive. We – Caro, Irma, Johannes and myself – took a Remise and went to the 'city center' of Quilpue. There we went to the Club Sibarita Quilpue to have some drinks and something small to eat. There we met up with Paula, a colleague of Irma. Had some drinks and very good time. As it seemed that the visitors could place their thoughts in writing on the wall I finally also did my writing:

Claudio estaba aqui
Johannes no habla español
Y las mujeres estan un poco loco
→ Irma, Caro y Paula
Me voy ahora al Café de las Piernas (me equivoqué – Cafe con piernas)


We had a lot of fun but finally the end neared. Paula drove us home and with a big hug I said good bye to Caro and Paula.


Irma and Johannes took me to the bus. At three I was in STGO .. taking a taxi to the hostel, dropped my stuff and went to the Mercado Central to have some seafood. There I had jardin de mariscos which was good and a lot so I could not eat all (19.000 Pesos). Later I went to search for some Cafe con Piernas but I did not find one, but I found the theatre. And there there was some show which I bought a ticket for (4000). Well, it was more or less like HP Kerkelings HUUUURZZZZ .. I did not really understand it. Well, went to the hostal early for getting some sleep as the taxi comes early

15.-20..September Puerto Natales – Puerto Montt - Rancagua

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Mon, October 26, 2015 13:04:56

15.-18.September Puerto Natales – Puerto Montt

Marta (a spanish doctor from Barcelona) and Pedro (the lawyer from alicante) from the excursion where also on board. We had some nice chats and stuck most of the time together. As the weather was no good I stayed most of the time inside working with my Video to Brain photoshop movies. Food was good, I helped Julio with his spanish and took it easy (Humberto where are you, need your connection to San Pablo for good weather).

Looking now forward to meet Rosa for the Dia de la Patria buuuut, in the TV there appeared on 17.September that 120km off Vina del Mar to the north there was around 19:30 an earth quake with 8.4 on the Richter. As we had no signal on board I do not have any idea neithere whether Rosa and her family is well, nor whether Arturo and his family who is located closer to the epicenter are well.

Allday long on 17the in the tv they talked about the earthquake … so far 9 deads


Arrove in Puerto Montt and it all seems ok with flights and in Rancagua. So I tried to find in the morning an open Pub but due to the Dia de la Patria nothing was open, so I decided to directly go to the airport, hoping to find there a WIFI.

At the airport only the WIFI in the VIP lounge was usable so I payed around 16 Euros to get in and had there some wine and could work with the Internet. Did chat with Rosa and there everything is fine. Took my flight to Stgo. On time and took the connection to the Turbus Terminal in Stgo and from there then the bus to Rancagua.

In Rancagua Rosa picked me up and we went to their family. There I got her room to stay and everybody joined for a dinner at the home of the parents. Gustavo, Nancy, Esteban, Nelson, Rosa, Maria (the mother) and briefly Jose (the father). Also uncle, aunt and a nevew wiht his swedish girlfriend. We had a alot of fun and sat there until midnight or so.

We had an easy start breakfast with fruit, juice, ham and cheese. After that Nelson and Rosa showed me around the city center with a lot of history. Wow its already some days ago so I do not remember everything. We went to the Media Luna (the arena where the rodeos are) and I had my first Terremoto (white wine – sweet – with Pinapple ice – even sweeter). I thought it is more folclore but it was more or less like octoberfest in Munich

We went up afterwards to the Copper Family and there some people celebrated the dia de la patria on her car. Strange but somehow nice.

For cenar again a lot of food .. hmpf … but ricoooo .. Maria is really cooking well creo gain some kilos here. Again in the family circle.


Next day again a late start and we went up to a famous hotel near the mines, together with a niece of Rosa (Ignacia, daughter of Esteban). Had here easy time and behaved like kids ;o). Had a coffee or my first Pisco Sour and returned to home, where Gustavo was a bit disappointed as he did the BBQ and we had been late ;o((. Again food food food .. (I guess I could fall in love with Rosa, but we are both Alphas and I guess it would end in murder-- :o((..)


Late again ;o) … we went to see Rosas Bauplatz and later we had a coffee and tea in the mountains with some nice views. Like it very much, and I guess I have a hard time to leave. At the evening we sat together with the whole family and as we had been much earlier then the other days the father joined as well and I could ask him about the history of mining and other things. He knows a lot of things, but suddenly he disappeared again. I guess he has his routine and doesnt like people around so much at night.

12.September – El Calafate – Puerto Natales

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Mon, October 26, 2015 13:01:32

12.September – El Calafate – Puerto Natales

Took a remise for 25 ARS to the busterminal and left El Calafate w/o eating Calafate, so most likely I dont come back again. In the bus there was Katherine and Florian two germans I had met in the excursion to Perito Moreno yesteray. Most of the time (6 hrs) I dozed as the whether changed to bad. We came to the chilenean border and had to get the luggage x-rayed (as in every chilenean frontier). Around 3 pm we where in the new busterminal. I walked the 10 quartes to the hostel but the hostel was still closed for the season, so I asked the guy where to go. He sent me to the YaganHouse, they only had a bunk bed left so I asked to use WiFi to check my BLOG for the hostel where I was 4 years ago – Lili Patagonia. I found that its at the next block so I just went there, but Lili was full for the day but next day a single was available which I took as Yagan House was full for the next day. So I slept in Yagan House which was relatively expensive 12.000 for bunk but the bed was really good. I didnt leave as I already ate around 4pm in the artsmarket cafe, a real, real, real good Caldillo Marisco (Seefood soup). Went to bed early.

13.September – Torres del Paine

The reception girl told me yesterday that I have to be ready between 7:30 – 8:00 am. But the breakfeast girl told no thats the summer schedule. Well so I had at least 30 Minutes more time. Breakfast was good. But on 8:30 am still nobody showed up and the girl said the minibus just had passed. She helped me and checked with the tour and she told me they are still on their way??? So they picked my up around 8:45. On the way we had a good sight of Condors just near the street. It took a bit more then 2hrs to the park (120km) and just as we arrove at the lookout the torres started to cover up so no sight, and thereafter heavy winds with boes of 120 km. I met the germans on the tour and we had some chat. We had exactly the same way as I had 6 years ago with Rosa and Arturo but not the same weather. We mad a lunchbreak at the same place where I got the incredible pics of a fox, but as it was raining I went to the restaurant for a soup and a vino. There one guy – Pedro – of our group joined and we finished a bottle together. After that I did not leave the bus more as it was raining and I saw glacier grey already and also the Milodon cave.

I agreed with the germans to meet to go together for supper. And as we had a suggestion from the tourguide Jonathan which was Las Picas Del Carlito we went there. Florian wanted cordero del palo which still was on the BBQ but the waiter said no that is already reserverd ;o(, so he took a parrilla, Katharine took s.th. De porber (with fried egg) and I had again a fishshoup. Prior we had Kingcrab, for a starter, which actually was a huge plate. Talking to the waiter I said him I like very much Curanto and he said, they had yesterday, shit. But, he said in the restaurant Raices del Chiloe they have. So I will go tomorrow. We wanted to change for a beer but all the places at the plaza de las armas have been closed, so we went to sleep.

14.September – Waiting for the Navimag Ferry

Easy going, stood up at 10, had my breakfast until 11:30 and then went for the NAVIMAG checkin. Left my bag there as I had to be back at 8:30 pm and went back for the center searching for a hairdresser as I wanted to get a beardcut prior to meet Rosa and her Family – Plans are to be changed, didnt plan to meet them for the Dia de la Patria at 18. September, but a lot of people told that there it will be nice as it is the heart of the chilean folclore and therefore I also searched now for a travelagency, as the flights I found in the INET had been quite expensive. I found an agency and got a flight for 180 Euros roundtrip from Puerto Montt, not knowing whether I take the return as I only bought it as it was 70 euros cheaper then the oneway so I have around 9 days in stgo.

Then I got my beard cut and luckily again my head is firmly attached to the body otherwise I would loose it as I forgot my glasses in the hairdressers and at 4:30 it was closed, so I went to the nearby artsmarket to have a bear and a soup, that was ultimatively too much for my dinner but well. Around 6pm I picked up my glasses and went to Raises del Chiloe, which still was closed but the guy let me in and I got my Curanto, wow again mussles with a size of my hand, only it was not as good as in Mechuque, Chiloe.

At 8:45 pm we had our emparquement, as we had been only about 20 people we got an upgrade, where Pedro had now the best deal as he bought his ticket for 3-way cabin for 300 dollar w/o window and I bought a 2-way cabin for 350 but we ended both in a 2-way with window occupied by one. Really great deal. I carried half a bottle of wine and 3 full bottles of wine into the ship not to have to pay the expensive drinks at board. On the third floor I suddenly felt some wetness at my leg annnnd... the cork wasnt fixed correctly so my half bottle was already empty, hope I dont get problems on board, but nobody said anything.

I got quite well along with Julio Assmann who spoke quite good german. And he told us that after a fire caused by drunken youngsters which burned their cabin 2 years ago they dont allow alcohol on board and there is no bar at all. So I asked him whethere we still go offboard and he told yes until tomorrow 9 am and he said that some of them go to a bar in P.N. So I joined them. There I got more or less the half of the team to know: Michael, Osvaldo and some others. We returned around 2 am.

10.September - El Calafate

ReisetagebuchPosted by Klaus W o Claudio el Tigre Sun, October 11, 2015 12:28:46

10.September – El Chalten - El Calafate

I took the 8 am bus to El Calafate and it was a marvelous day. The view onto Fitz Roy and Cerro Torres was great and luckily this time the busdriver did stop briefly to allow us to take some pics. I need to rent a car tomorrow to get back to the Lago Viedma, and even to Estancia Helsingfors as the guys told me that from there the views are incredible. Checked in again to I Keu Ken and talked to Marcelo about the asado tonite and we agreed to do it around 9 pm. So I left a bit for the city to see the flamengos and probably take a dring in the IceBar in the Museo de los Glaciares.

To the Laguna for the flamingos it was a walk around 1,5 km and nice, but the laguna was quite empty so I decided to take a beer on the terrasse at the nearby restaurant as it was a really nice day. Had again Guiso Patagonica and a beer. At the neighbour table a guy started to talk to me (dont remember the name, need to look it up in FB). He is working for the Navy Forces argentina and told me that today there two Mirages say their goodbye to the argentinian people at 5 pm (well I told him if that is 5 pm argenitinian time it will be sufficient time to do both, and we lauged) as they are to be taken out of service. So I guess they will fly really low, so I told him I dont think I can make it to the Glacier Bar and back in time. He said he will take me to the bar (11km outside of town) and so we went ;o), he had to return to do s.th. Urgently, but the girl (not his girlfriend) told me she was working for the Museo and got me more then a half the price entry (80 ARS instead of 200 ARS) and said she will return to pick me up. Wow how friendly.

I went to the icebar (I was already in one, I think it was in Iceland), and I thought I probably can make 2 cocktails in the 20 minutes which we stay, but I came along quite good with the barkeeper and I made 5 ;o) … again a nice experience and with 8 Euro it was a great deal so I gave the barkeeper 50 ARS as tip. Outside already Nati the girl from Cafayate wated and took me to the place where the event will happen. I think if I had walked I would have been faster. She told me she didnt drive much so far and so far never outside the town ;o)). Nati showed me the house of Presidenta Kirchner and then we went down near the laguna, I left the car around 4:25 and said to myself there is plenty of time still then I looked up by chance and there was already the first. Hmpf, 4:30, they must been english. I just not had time to prepare the cam so I got no shot really in focus ;o((. But anyway it was an experience.

Went to check for some options:

renting a car to go to Helsinfors – but no rental car availability in all the city. And a Remise would have costed 2000 ARS = 200 Euro. Shit as it is supposed to be very nice tomorrow

Excursion to Torres del Paine and transport de Paine to Natales would have costed 2200 ARS and this was NOOP (found later it costed in total 450 ARS from El Calafate to Natales and 30.000 Chilean Pesos to the Parq which was only a third so I decided good

to the bookstore bar and had some beers and returned to the hostel around 8:30 pm and marcelo told me there is no asado as he was waiting for me. Hmmm we got both somekind of anoyed (probably therefore I didnt find him anymore in FB). Well around 9pm Alejandro. Told him there is no car and there is no asado, he took it easy and said, well then lets go to by wine and salat and stay in the hostal and by sufficient (3 bottles, chees and salami) for tomorrow to take it easy at the perito moreno. So we did and had a good time together in the hostel.

11.September – El Calafate – Perito Moreno Glaciar

Alejandro and myself took it easy and nearly missed the bus as we both thought the other guy had the salami and the cheese when we went down to the busterminal. Alejandro turned running for the hostel and I gook his small but valuable backpack (wine) to the terminal. We reached the termina around 5 minutes before the bus left. And we had again luck, as we didnt book seats and there had been only 2 seats left ;o)). To the lookout its about 80 km and it took a bit more then 90 mins.

At the glacier we went to most of the lookouts and the first lookout where we took more time was the closest the northface. The weather was not that good and some could winds came up, but luckily the lookout was most times w/o much wind. That was the time to open the first bottle (11am). We enjoyed the sight and the sound of the glacier. We had been joined by a french young guy who sticked with us. So after around 90 minutes we went on as some chinese came and where somehow disturbing. As we went on through non sighting walkway there was a loud noise and I just saw the last piece falling and it was huge, shit shit shit I said we waited and the chinese got it. We all laughed so much.

The next viewpoint was more or less central and as we had the second bottle already open we drank a bit more and enjoyed the sight. The last viewpoint was on the southface of the glacier and there we stayed the rest of the time. We had a lot of fun and we where taking a lots of selfies with everybody passing by. The funniest was later in the central lookout with the ranger, on all the pics he looked identical as if he was a statue.

Around 4pm we went back to the bus and reached El Calafate shortly before 6pm and went for 2 beers to the bookstore. In the hostel we found out that there a lot of people wanted to participate in the asado and more then we had expected. So we went to buy additional meat, salat and wine. I didnt feel so well in this loud flock and also I still felt my stomach full, therefore I didnt participate in the asado, The guys had a lot of fun according to the noise.

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